|
No study of the Victorians and Edwardian underwear can omit the subject of women's corsets,
a type of clothing whose association with intimacy
has given it enduring attraction.
The word "corset" is derived from the French word "corps" meaning body.
Corsets have appeared in
art as far back as 1700 BC. Although the corset has a long history,
with as many different reasons for its use, the appeal existing today probably began
during the 1890-1914 period, commonly known as "the great epoch of undergarments".
Underclothing prior to this period was maligned as ugly and unflattering.
Bulky flannel petticoats, woolen stockings, and thick long undergarments.... just much to de rigueur,
especially for any type of sexual arousal.
But, remember this type of undergarment fit well into the stereotype of Victorian sexual repression.
This, by no means, meant they were unaware of the sexual appeal of a seductive and luxurious corset.
The 19th century French designer, Jean-Julien Josselin, is responsible for the advent of the corset,
as we know it today. For a long time though, it tended to be associated with women of "easy virtue".
Fashion journals devoted little attention to the corset until a sudden, drastic change in the late 1880's.
Extravagance and luxury became vogue. The French journal of the day, "La Vie Parisienne" insisted,
"the absolutely elegant corset was indeed in good taste". Of course, "La Vie Parisienne" was directed to
the man about-town and catered to his erotic fantasies. It invoked that partial nudity for more erotic
than the fully nude, and a note of voyeurism of the semi-clad woman in an intimate setting, was almost
as good as sex itself.
In 1905, Paris introduced a new corset, which became the rage. The low-busted corset, in theory might have
been a better design, but when laced even moderately tightly, it produced a more "distorted" figure, known as the S bend.
Companies claimed their new and improved corsets could withstand the test of time, making them from rustproof
steel or indestructible whale bone. They used words of 'correctness' and 'artistic' in conjunction with the garment.
Although touted as improved, elegant and seductive, with a new comforting fit, corsets, in general, these new corsets
were considered uncomfortable and troublesome. It would take some time for this form-fitting style would take hold.
What did women want though? Well, of course, the perfect figure! As fashion magazines touted their
loveliness, women fell victim to the corset.
The corset carried through to the French postcards as well. The focus of the figure begins
to shift from the waist to the bosom. As you will see, the hourglass figure was never so popular as seen in
the earlier images of yesterday.
Links to our categories are found at the top and bottom of this page.
We invite you to read and save any images on our site.
We also carry vintage fashion images in our shop.
When you have time, please visit our
Vintage Shop
Bibliography:
The Corset: A Cultural History, Valerie Steele, 2001
Inventing Beauty: A History of the Innovations that Have Made Us Beautiful, Teresa Riordan, 2004
|